Beware of genuine leather: no leather is the same as leather

Humans have used leather to make clothing and consumer goods for over 7,000 years. Leather has stood the test of time and continues to be a popular material. But will yours last as long? Not all products labeled "leather" are actually made from leather.

Real leather or something else?

Genuine leather

Leather is the unprocessed fur of a hunted and skinned animal . After being skinned from the animal, the skin dries out and hardens, which is why it is soaked and then further processed by leaching, maceration, pickling and tanning. Animal skin consists of three parts – the skin, the dermis and the subcutaneous tissue. Only the dermis is used for further processing, the skin and subcutaneous tissue are removed during leather processing.

After removing the animal's fur, small holes remain in the skin where the hairs are attached. These holes form the so-called face pattern of the skin. The material created by processing raw hide in a tannery is called hide, and after tanning, hide becomes leather . Much more widespread and stable for this material is simply leather. The most common is cowhide , but pigskin, veal, goatskin, sheepskin, horseskin, wild boar, snakeskin, lizard skin, crocodile, fish or ostrich skin are also used.

The Nile perch is a huge fish that can grow up to two meters long. In addition to its meat, it is also sold for its skin.

Leather is a natural material and after tanning it still works. Thanks to its pores, it breathes, absorbs moisture, dirt, dust and grease. All this gives leather its characteristic properties and unmistakable patina . Leather is resistant, durable, breathable, flexible and yet strong.

What is eco-leather?

Eco-leather is animal skin produced in an environmentally friendly process. This applies to the waste generated, the surface treatments applied to the products, the energy used in production, but above all, the chemicals. In fact, dangerous chemicals such as chromium, formaldehyde, azo dyes and PCP are used in the processing of leather. Some standards for the production of eco-leather only limit the use of chemicals. Other standards prohibit them and only allow natural materials.

Processed leather is called leatherette. However, today the term leather has become established as a synonym for the word leather.

Leather dyed with natural dyes

In this process, tanners use only natural tannins. The leather is treated with environmentally friendly technologies and its shades are created from naturally occurring tannins in oak, chestnut or mimosa trees. This process has been around for centuries and was first used by ancient craftsmen. Vegetable tanned leather is often more expensive due to the long production time, which can take 30 to 60 days. However, it is highly durable and pleasant to the touch, and has a unique patina that changes over time.

Saddle leather

Naturally dyed leather, originally used for making saddles. Today, saddle leather is used, for example, for making home accessories, as shown by the leading Italian manufacturer Rabitti 1969. Its products are characterized not only by the highest quality ecological leather, but also by original design and craftsmanship.

Baskets made of the highest quality saddle leather from Rabitti 1969 by Giobagnara.

Bonded leather

Bonded leather, sometimes called fiber leather or regenerated leather , is made from scraps and fibers that are discarded during the leather manufacturing process. The scraps are ground and mixed with polyurethane, latex, and other synthetic materials in a process similar to recycled paper. The mixture is then pressed into sheets, sanded, and varnished. A polyurethane coating with an embossed texture may be added to create the texture of real leather. Most bonded leather contains 10 to 20 percent real leather.

The visual and tactile properties of the product may look like natural leather. However, this material does not have the real properties of leather. A larger surface area may crack if subjected to stress. However, the advantage of this leather is its impermeability and water resistance.

Applied PU layer that creates the optical impression of genuine leather.

Bicast leather

Bicast leather (sometimes called bi-cast or bycast) is made by taking the fibrous part of a cowhide (split leather) and coating it with a polyurethane or vinyl layer. This gives it a uniform shine and a long-lasting “like new” appearance. The resulting product has an artificially consistent texture similar to high-quality leather. However, it cannot be considered an equivalent to leather because it does not have the strength, breathability, and durability of a natural product.

Leather alternatives aren't always what they seem

You’ve probably heard of the term “ vegan leather .” The name suggests it’s made from plant-based material, but is that really the case? In fact, “vegan leather” isn’t leather at all, nor is it always plant-based. Vegan leather is generally made from animal-free products and is an imitation of real leather. The term itself is an oxymoron. The term “leather” is strictly defined and must refer to tanned animal hide. Vegan leather, on the other hand, is often made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane (PU), and composite microfibers made from textile polymers or other petroleum-based materials. In layman’s terms: plastics . Some newer alternatives are based on plant or fruit fibers.

Synthetic leather

Synthetic or artificial leather is artificially created either entirely from synthetic polymers or by combining them with natural polymers. There are two basic building blocks of artificial leather: polyurethane ("PU") and polyvinyl chloride (PVC - "vinyl").

Vinyl synthetic leather ( leatherette ) first appeared in the United States in the 1940s. It is made from strong polyester fibers and vinyl made from PVC and plasticizers. This vinyl melts onto the surface of the fibers, sealing them and creating a virtually waterproof surface that is still flexible and tough. Leatherette is ideal for upholstery in hospitals and restaurants, for example, because it is easy to clean and maintain. However, vinyl can become uncomfortably hot and sticky if left in the sun. Vinyl can also crack and blister with prolonged use.

PU leather is made by coating a base fabric, such as cotton, polyester, or shredded leather, with a flexible polymer, then treating it to look like animal skin. PU is the most realistic imitation of real leather in terms of surface and overall appearance. When sewn together, it “breaks” and wrinkles like real leather. Because no plasticizers are used in PU, it does not crack or peel, and remains soft and flexible. It is also easier to create patterns on it. Polyurethane is considered greener than vinyl because it does not produce dioxins.

GUMSHOE shoes are made from recycled chewing gum.

Other alternatives

The fashion industry is racing to come up with alternatives to "leather." You can find imitations made from cork , organic waxed cotton, eucalyptus , teak, but also recycled chewing gum , mycelium, cactus, and sphagnum moss . These alternative materials have certainly achieved higher quality over the years, but they still have significantly different structures and properties than real leather.

Brands such as Piñatex, Vegea, Noani and ALLÉGORIE prove that "leather" can also be made from fruit . Food waste creates 8% of total global greenhouse gas emissions. That's almost as much as all the cars in the world.

By recycling discarded fruit in the food industry , ALLÉGORIE DESIGN helps reduce food waste. For example, each of their Gala Backpacks recycles approximately 550 apples, with approximately 80% of the backpack being made from organic content.

The handbag from ALLÉGORIE is made of apples.

Piñatex , on the other hand, is made from pineapple waste. It was developed in the Philippines, but in the last few years it has gained popularity and spread to the global eco-fashion scene. Designers such as Mariam Al Sibai, Hugo Boss , Paul Smith, No Saint, H&M, Matiz, Schenk and many others sew their products from Piñatex.

Pineapple fibers prepared for the production of Piňatex.

And to make matters worse, the biotech company Modern Meadow is making leather in a lab . It looks, feels and smells like leather, but it’s not leather. What is it? ZOA™. Basically, it works like this: genetically engineered yeast produces collagen, a basic component of skin. It’s then used to create a tough, fibrous material. The biotech leather can be grown thick or thin, firm or flexible, textured or shiny. Products made from this “leather” can only be admired at the “Museum of Modern Art” in New York City.

Each of us has completely different demands, possibilities and needs. But what we can all do is inform ourselves before buying. Make sure not only about the brand and price, but above all about the material, workmanship and quality. Buy consciously !

Handmade leather baskets from the Italian brand Pinetti.